The Brad's Adventures in Food

Summer Cocktail Watch: Chelada

To celebrate the fact that it's only 88° right now (instead of the 104° it's been this last week,) I sat on the patio, caught up on some back-issues of Bon Appétit, and drank a few of these:

I call this a Chelada (not to be confused with the Budweiser offering - or the Michelada on which the canned version is based).

Mexican Beer (here some left behind Modelo), Ice, Sea Salt, Lime. Refreshing as hell! I do like Micheladas as well - made by adding to the above: Clamato, Worcestershire Sauce, pick a Hot Sauce, Maggi Seasoning Sauce (or Soy Sauce as a substitute.) It's heartier but delicious. I get them often at MiCo's, and they have a great one at Pepe at Mito's.

Guilty Pleasure Hangover Cure: Grand Lux Cafe

Yesterday morning I saw this tweet go by: Ruhlman was heading off to the Cheesecake Factory to "see for myself." I thought "Oh here we go, this should be good." It turns out he was challenged by author and journalist Kelly Alexander to go eat the Miso Salmon dish and not enjoy it. (Showing here)

My lunch choice was settled. I have never eaten at a location of the Cheesecake Factory either, but we do have a Grand Lux Cafe down the street. 

^ ...yes, there was a wait at lunch.

Grand Lux Cafe was conceived by Cheesecake founder David Overton when approached by Vegas' Venetian Resort, Hotel and Casino to create an upscale version of his chain. There are now 13 locations across the country. I believe Lux's price point is slightly higher and there are only a few dishes shared with the Factory. What they do have in common: a massive menu, generous (bordering on outrageous) portions, and passionate devotees. When I find myself at a bit of a deficit (let's say due to more research of the Burgundy region's white wines) ...this place nicely fits the bill.

^ The finish-out carries over from the Las Vegas original. The room is huge and the detail is impressive.

A favorite dish is the Max Burger: Angus beef stuffed with short ribs, etc. - but not today.

^ Short Rib Grilled Cheese: Slow-roasted Short Ribs, Caramelized Onion and Creamy Melted Cheese on Grilled Country Bread, Peperoncini Relish. And the gargantuan Fish and Chips: Fresh Fish Tempura Style, Peanut Cole Slaw, House Tartar Sauce.

The bread on the sandwich was just so and the short ribs, succulent. The fish was well prepared, juicy - the batter crisp and light. And there are, like, six or seven large pieces - insane. I left feeling quite a bit better. Mission accomplished.

Kaboom Cocktails

It's always a good plan to have a mixologist hanging around, so for this year's Kaboom Town celebration Michael Martensen dropped by to get the evening going. I keep an eclectic selection of booze on hand just for such an occasion.

Mike brought along some Bulleit Bourbon, "frontier whiskey" with a very high rye content. Spying the Green Chartreuse, Martensen whipped up a flowery sounding, but kick-ass old school cocktail: the Whiskey Daisy.

^ Whiskey Daisy: here featuring the Bulleit Bourbon, Green Chartreuse, Lemon, Lime, Sugar.

We popped some nice and affordable Charles de Fère Reserve Blanc de Blancs Brut. Then MM mixed some Bulleit, Ginger Ale and Lemon in plastic cups - I grabbed my Sangria (from a Dale DeGroff recipe) and we ran across the street to meet some friends and watch the fireworks from atop a new rooftop pool deal.

The Leftovers:

Tom Colicchio and David Ramey Pack the Crack House, Craft Dallas.

Whatever... so Craft is in Victory Park, so Colicchio has ventures from coast-to-coast, so he's the co-host of a (pretty fun) reality show... the place is still quite good. My friends and I refer to it as "Crack," as in "they sprinkle crack on each dish as it is whisked from the kitchen to your table." Colicchio's philosophy of attempting to extract the essence of each ingredient seems to be generally adhered to at Craft Dallas. A favorite dish of mine is actually served at brunch on occasion: Hash of Shishito Peppers and Duck Confit - crack.

As it was my friend Michelle's birthday, her husband Jeff got a group of us together for a recent wine dinner featuring Colicchio and winemaker David Ramey in attendance. Tom joked to the packed house that it was great to actually see the restaurant full. I have to agree, it's a truly handsome room - one of my favorites in town - but it's usually a tad less booked than on this particular evening. We enjoyed the energy of the full room.

^ Canapés w/ 2006 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay.

^ Tai Snapper, Shellfish Ragout & Black Garlic w/ 2005 Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay, Carneros.

^ Pancetta-Wrapped Monkfish, Porcini & Spring Onions w/ 2005 Claret; Roasted & Braised Guinea Hen, Fava Bean Raviolini w/ 2005 Larkmead Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.

^ Elysian Fields Lamb, Crispy Belly & Morels w/ 2005 Rodgers Creek Vineyard Syrah; Chocolate-Hazelnut Turnover, Brandied Cherries & Vanilla-Mint Ice Cream... and we drank ALLOT more wine.

^ Crack Packs.

I have eaten here a number of times and Jeff & Michelle are actually regulars. We are accustomed to excellent service and delicious food - during this event we got that, with a few caveats. There were some issues getting the food out in a timely fashion, and in general the dishes later in the meal seemed more on par with previous visits. Our group had a great time, our server knew our party and kept the excellent wine flowing, Michelle got to meet Tom, and Jeff and I enjoyed chatting with the very personable David Ramey (who does a rather nice job making wine).

^ There's Tom after service (far right).

Colicchio says he plans to do more of these dinners, and why not? He's a restaurateur who's presence can pack the house. I think they learned a few things this time around. Based on the winemaker's they pair with in future, I'll likely attend again. Meanwhile, I encourage jaded food lovers to dine here once in a while, and look for that Crack Hash at brunch. I certainly have no problem with celebrity chefs when their restaurants serve quality food. Now I'll pack this post, and go.

Find the calm: a moment or two @ Tei-An

The prelude to a wonderful tale, and a reminder of what it's all about:

 

^ Hokkaidō Uni, Four Ways; Line Caught Spanish Mackerel. 

... please...

"Lite" Lunch at Masaryk - Addison Circle

Not that chef Gabriel DeLeon needs any more press (his PR machine is in full swing), but I thought I'd post some pics from lunch. The buzz on Masaryk has brought many new faces to Addison Circle, which is also home to Avanti Neighborhood Bistro, Antonio's, Greenz, Kampai Sushi, Pastazio's, Astoria Caffe, Fit Cafe, and my local, Zen Bar. 

^The A.C.

^Masaryk Modern Mexican Kitchen.

^Lunch Specials: Two Enchiladas/Eggs; Two Enchiladas/Beef Taco.

^Enchilada/Pork Tamale/Beef Taco (Spinach Enchilada w/ Cream of Spinach Reduction); My own concoction: the Top Shelf Burrito w/ Shredded Pork and Tomatillo Salsa.

Deli in Dallas? "Oy vey iz mir!" Chapter: Roaster's

Yeah, yeah... I've been here, I've been there. NYC's greatest hits, even LA haunts ... I get deli. Dallasites bicker back and forth - feh! We don't have it here, so let's have fun with what we do have. I, personally, was enamored of Gilbert's, sadly missed these last few years.

Enter Roaster's (in the former Ed's Deli space). 

It comes with the familiar trappings:

Yep, yep... triggering happy memories...

^ My guests enjoyed these selections.

^ National Deli Beef Salamies hanging to dry; I opted for the Hard Salami Sandwich - Carnegie Style (sliced from these hanging beauties, once enough moisture has evaporated - this takes at least a month). For scale: that's not a lemon wedge on the plate, it's an orange slice.

It's just a big mess. Once slathered in mustard, it's two meals of goodness. Debate is passionate about this establishment's pastrami purveyor, and other issues - but this sandwich made me happy. So there.

...and who can't love this eclair... come on.

Meanwhile the Zinsky’s people think they will make everybody happy... Mazal tov!

Burguesa serves a big sloppy mess of good!

I saw a way-too-perfect food shot of Burguesa's formidable La Monumental on a local food blog... and decided to investigate. Jeff Sinelli, founder of Which Wich and Genghis Grill (where you will find us at lunch about once a week... my bowl RULES, btw) has created a "Mexican Burger Joint" that is worth the trip.

^ Best way to describe the location (see orange blip below Sonny's sign); and a close-up (with an unfortunate hovering message - that should cycle out soon enough, one would hope).

^ A kinder view; "Gimmie gimmie!"

^ La Monumental: Two beef patties, two slices of cheese, ham, avocado, lettuce, tomato, onion, refried beans, crunchy tostada, and special creamy sauce on a Bimbo® sesame seed bun, crowned with a whole jalapeño pepper; Strawberry Milkshake and a Donut.

There is no outside seating, so I raced to a parking lot and unwrapped this savory amalgam - not quite as pretty, but it could not have been more satisfying... messy, crunchy, gooey... mushy but with bite... weird, and great. I liked it just fine. I am also a big fan of French fry sauces that are not ketchup (more on this later) - and the spicy mixture provided fit the bill.

I say give it a shot - it's different, fun, and delicious.

First Look: Cobb Switch BBQ

Ran over to Cobb Switch today for lunch – thought I’d post some pics.

We thought the porch had a great feel, the door pictured here leads to the bar, which is separated from the dining room (below).

^ A slab of Brisket; The Frito Pie (Pete really liked this).

^ The Jalapeño and Cheese Sausage and Brisket, Potato Salad and Slaw.

Fine, but the real hit: the Fried Pies! 

^ Apricot Fried Pie; and a delicious version with Apple and Cranberry.

They also offered Cherry and Chocolate. Good stuff, indeed.

Dali exhibit at the Beard House - a preview:

Dali Wine Bar & Cellar Chef Joel Harloff and proprietor Paul Pinnell have been invited to prepare dinner at the James Beard House on June 8th. The menu will be matched with wines from Hall Napa Valley. Talking with Joel, who has previously cooked at the Beard House while chef at the Melrose, I was surprised to hear of the logistical challenges involved with pulling off a dinner at the House. It’s far more dramatic than I had imagined – for instance, the team only has access to the kitchen from 8am on the day of the event, causing visiting chefs to beg borrow and steal square footage from chef pals with nearby New York kitchens. Joel will be bringing a number of chef colleagues from around the country to help him prepare the meal for 75 Beard Foundation members, food journalists, friends and family. This past Sunday I attended a preview dinner at Dali, featuring most components of the meal that will be prepared on June 8th.

^ Chef Joel Harloff and his "three guys" work wonders from the small, open kitchen at Dali.

^ Roasted Octopus with Capers, Smoked Paprika and Endive; Triple Cream Brie Meltaways (w/ Hall Napa Valley Savignon Blanc 2008).

^Citrus Marinated Crab Crostini; the menu.

^ Dali proprietor Paul Pinnell welcomes the guests; the wines of Hall Vineyards, Napa (with excellent stand-in's for the the unavailable Hall Darwin Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2005, Jack's Masterpiece Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, and the Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2005).

^ Brazos Valley Texas Brie and Wild Mushroom Soup with Duck Confit and Fresh Thyme Crostini (Hall Napa Merlot 2005); Grilled Texas Quail with Fresh Herb Polenta and a Pomegranate-Syrah Reduction (Dierberg Syrah 2005).

^ Porcini Braised Beef Short Ribs with Yukon Gold-Parsnip Puree, Petite Spinach, and a Cabernet Demi Glace (Hall Cabernet Sauvignon 2005).

^ Seared and Smoked Veal Tenderloin with Asiago Mashers, Roasted Garlic Washington State Mushrooms and a Fresh Blueberry Veal Sauce (La Jota Cabernet Sauvignon 2003).

^ Brazos Valley Texas Blue Cheese with Blackberry Sauce and Lavosh (Kathryn Hall Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005).

^ Spiced Pecan-Apple Bread Pudding with Creme Anglaise and Dried Apricot Compote (Château Cantegril Sauternes 2005).

Afterword, Chef Harloff chatted with guests and discussed refinements and adjustments he'd like to make for the event in NYC.  View the planned menu here.